One mile down the road from where we camped, we found a sign for a cafe and lodging. I think it was called Mountain Lodge. We wished we would have seen it the night before! Although it was probably closed by the time we would have gotten there.
We went in for coffee, and stayed for a second breakfast. "The last 25 cent cup of coffee on earth" the meanu boasted. Free refills, too.
We talked to some other patrons at the restaurant.
From one woman we got the following advice:
- grizzlies all over the Yukon
- Lots of other cyclists coming down from Fairbanks
- the cafe is at the highest point on the pass (we would gratefully descend for the next 10 miles before any serious uphill)
- Alaska has 1 month of nice weather: May. June - August is rainy season. Who knew?
Alaska seems like a big joke to me: the weather, the towns on a map that aren't towns at all, the mixed opinions about what to see and what not to see, the mixed advice on bears and wildlife.... it is all so confusing. While at a rest stop wringing out my socks, a Direct TV man stopped to use the latrine. He asked where we were going, and we asked him "Does it get any warmer?" He paused for a moment, looked like he was about to say something smart or sarcastic, and then broke face and answered with a laugh and an unequivocal "No." He knew the joke was already made: Nicholas and I were in for another day of misery.
The woman at the cafe was right aboue the Cafe being at the highest point on the pass. The inclines were less intense and shorter, and we descended much more today. at mile 50, Nicholas gazed out over the road which meandered down into a valley. He said "Last 10 miles downhill." I thought it was too good to be true, but that is what it was. We road a heavenly 10 miles into town, bumping our average speed up to 12 mph for the day as we rolled in.
We got food at a grocery store in town, looked into paying for camping, but at $25 for a tent space (same as an RV) we decided it was too much.
Before finding a place to stay, we went to a vacant parking lot infront of a boarded up taco and gift shop to air out our tents and large gear. Not a taco shop and a gift shop, and taco and gift shop. It was here that we met some interesting folk, and got some supplies. Who knew sitting in a vacant lot could be so eventful?
"The Robber"
While airing out our gear, a man came up to us in his truck. He said that he was coming back from camping with his wife and daughter, and they needed gas money to make it back. He was selling some of his camping gear. For the last two days (the cold, wet rainy miserable days) Nicholas had been talking incessantly about how much he wanted a thermos like the one I have to keep hot liquids in. And it just so happened that this man had a 2 liter thermos in his truck bed. $5. So Nicholas bought the stolen thermos from the man and it made our day! He also bought a solar/wind rechargable up radio from him which works like crap. I knew it wouldn't work, but I seceretly like that we can get the weather report for 30 seconds at a time when the thing works.
"The Crazy Hiker Guy"
While airing out our gear, a man came from inside the boarded up building and started talking to us as he smoked a cigarette. Apparently he had been walking and hitchhiking between Anchorage and somewhere. His story was hard to follow. He diappeared for a while, and then returned with some fishing line and hooks that he gave to us because he wouldn't need them anymore. If we are stranded by a lake or stream without food now we can catch some of our own.
"The Mayor"
An ATV riding man approached us and taught us something about government: Glenallen is an unincorporated borough, has no mayor, and has no laws. There are no taxes, and no ordinances. If you want to start a bussiness, you buy a piece of land, nail together some walls, and start up. It just so happens that, according to the mayor, Glenallen is one of hte last places with any freedom. Who knew? And we got the privalage to be a part of it.
The man wasn't actually the mayor, because there is no government in Glenallen. But he probably runs the town considering he and his wife own half the successful businesses in town: The RV Park, the grocery store, the functioning gift shop and cafe, and something else.
Despite being one of the only places with freedom, we didn't feel free enough to camp in the parking lot of the man who owns half the town.
There was as 24 hour laundromat in town, so we decided we would take a long, long time to do laundry.
The weather is clearing, and tomorrow is supposed to be better.
62 Miles
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